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  • Green Herringbone Hunting Jacket
  • Modern Navy Double Breasted Blazer
  • Navy Window Pane Sport Coat
  • Green Suit With Ticket Pocket
  • Tan Glen Plaid Suit
  • Burgundy Chalk Stripe Double Breasted Suit

 

Custom

There are two major reasons why men might choose to go the custom route: the most obvious is for fit, but custom also allows for a virtually infinite combination of fabric and details, especially compared to ready-to-wear.

Fit

Very few men are fortunate enough to have a garment fit perfectly right off the rack, or even after alterations. Once the fabric has been cut, there are limits to what can and should be done through tailoring. For instance, the vast majority of men have one shoulder lower than the other, usually their dominant arm. To adjust for this with a ready-made suit, an additional pad might be put in the jacket on the side of the low shoulder. With custom, the pattern would be cut lower on this side and would not require a pad.

A lot of men will find off-the-rack shirt fit to be more frustrating than suit and sport coat fit. Both shirts and jackets extrapolate all of their respective measurements from one single factor. With shirts this is the neck measurement and with jackets it's the chest, which is much more representative of the torso than the neck is. Unfortunately if wearing buttoned, a dress shirt needs to fit in the neck. 

Style 

Even if you are one of the rare individuals that has a nearly perfect fit off-the-rack, you most likely are looking at a limited number of choices in fabric, lapel style, number of buttons, etc. Custom allows you to choose all of the details that represent your style and preference.

 

 

Measuring

Measuring is the first and most important step in creating a custom garment. If the fit isn't right, the other details can't make up for it. In order to correctly fit a garment, a multitude of skin measurements are required to account for all of the nuances of the body. It is also necessary to account for posture, such as the curvature of the spine and the angle of both shoulders.

 

Details

For most men, choosing the details is the fun part where they can put their own personal touch on their garment. Ezra Paul carries thousand of different fabrics from the UK and Italy with perfect choices for any season and any occasion. But fabric choice is just the tip of the iceberg. There are choices for type/width of lapels, button number/material, color, type of stitching, type of vents, functional buttonholes, lining to name just some of the choices for suits and sport coats. For shirts, there are collar length and spread, placket, pleat, button, thread, monogram, and stitching options. If it sounds daunting, don't worry, we are happy to help you navigate towards a garment that reflects your personal style.